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poker strategy

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Friday, June 24, 2005

Deuces Wild Video Poker Strategy

Deuces Wild Video Poker Strategy
The following strategy is based on the "full pay" deuces wild paytable below.
Full Pay Deuces Wild
Hand
Payoff
Probability
Return
Royal flush (natural)
800
0.00002208
0.01766709
Four deuces
200
0.00020342
0.04068426
Royal flush (wild)
25
0.00179518
0.04487958
Five of a kind
15
0.00320057
0.04800855
Straight flush
9
0.00413697
0.03723269
Four of a kind
5
0.06492502
0.32462510
Full house
3
0.02122914
0.06368741
Flush
2
0.01658389
0.03316779
Straight
2
0.05659214
0.11318429
Three of a kind
1
0.28451355
0.28451355
Non-winner
0
0.54679803
0.00000000
Total
1.00000000
1.00765031
Following is a strategy for the payoff table above. To determine the best play look under the list given the number of deuces hold (you never discard a deuce). Then look for the highest playable hand on the list. For example if you have both a pair and four to a flush you would keep the pair because it is higher on the list. The numbers on the right represent the expected return, which can vary depending on the discards.
The player should evaluate straight flush draws carefully. Usually the number of ranks the straight flush spans determines the spread. However if the straight flush is on the low end this can reduce the number of ways to complete it. For example suited 3-4-5,

0 Deuces

Natural royal flush (800.0000) 4 to a royal flush (19.574469) Straight flush (9.0000) Four of a kind (5.8510637) Full house (3.0000) Three of a kind (2.0175762) Straight/Flush (2.0000) 4 to an outside straight flush (1.65958) Suited 10-J-Q (1.3987) 4 to an inside straight flush (1.3829787) 3 to a royal flush, except 10-J-Q (1.2719704) Pair (0.560222) Two pair (0.5106383) 4 to a flush (0.5106383) 4 to an outside straight (0.5106383) 3 to a straight flush, spread 3-4, suited 345 (0.5051-0.3959) 2 to a royal flush, jack highest1 (0.38815913) 3 to a straight flush, spread 5 and suited 346,356 2,3 (0.35522664) 4 to an inside straight, except missing deuce (0.34042552) 2 to a royal flush, queen highest4 (0.33851373) 2 to a royal flush, king highest, no penalty cards5 (0.3278446) Garbage, everything discarded (0.32552597) 2 to a royal flush, king highest, 1 penalty card6 (0.3185939) 2 to a royal flush, ace highest (0.29768732) 3 to a straight flush, A low (0.2729)
Notes:
1: Suited 7-10-J beats suited 10-J if either (1) king and ace discards, or (2) queen discard without 8.

2: Play 4 to an inside straight over 3 to a straight flush, spread 5, if there is a straight penalty card to the straight flush.

3: Play 2 to a royal, queen high, over 3 to a straight flush, spread 5, when 6 or 7 high.

4: Play 2 to a royal, queen high, over 4 to an inside straight if there are no flush penalty cards and a fully open straight possibility. A fully open straight possibility means that there exists some possible straight with no penalty cards discarded. For example with suited 10-Q and unsuited 5-K-A the player has a full chance at a Q-J-10-9-8 straight. However with suited 10-Q and unsuited K-9-5 the player should go for the inside straight because the K and 9 block any fully open straight possibility.

5: There are some rare exceptions in which it is better to discard everything rather than keep two to a royal, king high, with no penalty cards. There are some rare exceptions in which it is better to keep the two to a royal, king high, despite a 9 or ace straight penalty card.

posted by poker strategy at 5:19 AM 0 comments

Sunday, June 12, 2005

Stud Poker Strategy

Stud Poker Strategy: TripsMay 22, 2005
Ashley Adams has been playing poker since he learned it, literally, at his grandfather's knee 42 years ago. He's been a winning casino poker player for the past 11 years, playing primarily at Foxwoods Resort Casino but also in poker rooms all over the world. He has won at ring games and tournaments, at Stud, Stud8 and Hold Em, limit and no limit. He is the author of Winning 7-card Stud (Kensington, 2003) and over 100 articles about poker. He is due to publish Winning Baby No Limit Hold Em in 2006 and has recently been working with numerous charities on fundraising poker tournaments.
I recall some poker "advice" I read in a book on 7-Card Stud a while back. It flippantly suggested that no one really had to worry about how to play Trips on Third Street in Stud because it was very uncommon - happening fewer than one time in four hundred deals - and that regardless of how one played the hand, victory was nearly assured.
OK, that's one approach.
I have a few thoughts, however, that may well improve your game. From what I've experienced at the Stud table, while victory of the hand may occur most of the time when you're dealt Trips, the key is in winning the maximum amount of money when you win that pot. And that, I've found, depends greatly on how you play them.
Conventional wisdom is that you should slowplay Trips, lest you force everyone out with your raise. In truth, there are games and situations where that is the wisest approach. If, for example, you are in an extremely tight game, where players tend to concede all but the strongest hands to a raise on Third Street, and you're in relatively late position, then you may want to lay back until Fourth or maybe even Fifth Street before you initiate or escalate the betting action.
Imagine you sit with (J-J) J. The bring-in is to your left. The first five players fold to you. One player with a 6 and the bring-in with a 3 remain. Why raise? Your raise at this type of table and in your position and against those low cards will almost surely cause the bring-in and the other player to fold. You will win a tiny pot. Better to wait and hope that one of them catches a card that inspires hope. Raise on Fourth Street and you will be more likely to get someone to call. If they call on Fourth there's a much better chance that they won't throw their hand away on Fifth, Sixth or the River, insuring you a decent pot for your efforts.
That's conventional wisdom. Often it's the correct path. At least fifty percent of the time, however, I've found that this isn't the best way to extract the most money from those wonderful occasions when you're dealt Trips. This is because most 7-Card Stud games rarely play very tightly. Players on Third Street usually, in the typical game, want to find an excuse to call. So you want them to put more money in the pot - giving them an excuse to call all the way until the River.
Against players who are typically loose on Third Street, much depends on the action of your opponents. Invariably, I find good reason for raising with those Trips. Consider the following scenarios.
You're in early position. You have Trip 8s. No 8s are out. A couple of players have Premium cards - one with an Ace, one with a Queen. A number of players after you are fairly loose - not calling every hand but certainly not rocks. Raise here.
You raise, representing either a pair of 8s with a big kicker or a Premium Pair in the hole - or maybe just three suited cards with an Ace or a King in the hole. Other players make these move all the time at the Stud table. The players are sophisticated enough to recognize that you may well be doing the same. They don't put you on Trip 8s because it's a very rare hand and because conventional wisdom would not have you raising.
Most of the time, at least one and probably two players will call your raise. They'll do this mistakenly, thinking you have less than you do. And, perhaps, they will do it deceptively, with a Premium Pair themselves, higher than what they think are your pair of 8s - thinking they are lulling you into thinking you have the highest hand at the table.
Their calls will be very expensive for them and very lucrative for you. If they are foolishly slow playing a higher pair, they will probably bet as the high card on Fourth Street (assuming you don't hit another 8). If they get tricky, or if they improve to Two Pair, they may try for a check raise. Either way, they are sliding down a very slippery slope with their strategy, committing themselves more deeply to a hand. You can raise their bet or, if they check, you can let them raise you and you can raise them back. Very few Stud players are strong enough to fold after they have set up a check raise or after they have initiated a bet with a decent hand on Fourth Street. Similarly, once they have put in these additional two or three bets on Fourth Street, they are much less inclined to fold on later streets - seeing the size of the pot they have built with their temerity.
So a raise on Third Street is helpful. If they then re-raise you on Third Street, then I'd tend to slow down. Let them think that their raise scared you off of your medium pair high kicker or Premium Pair in the hole. Your initial raise, however, will convince them that you're not slow playing a monster. So you'll be able to take advantage of their misimpression later on.
I tend to play high Trips, like Kings or Aces, similarly - unless of course I believe that my opponents are so tight that they might fold to a Premium Pair in this situation. So, for example, with Trip Kings on Third Street in early position, I would raise if I thought there was a good chance that at least someone would call me. Again, however, if I thought there was a reasonable chance that everyone would fold to me, because they were tight enough to fold on Third Street if they thought I had a pair of Kings, then I'd just call along and hope that someone else raised, so I could call.
From my experience, in most 7-Card Stud games (though not all) there are usually at least a couple of players who must see Fourth Street unless there are two bets to them. Accordingly, if someone has raised in front of me on Third Street I will often just call behind them when I have Trips. But I don't always play it this way. Sometimes, against opponents who are particularly stubborn, or if my image has become one of being hyper-aggressive or tricky, I will make it two bets. I make it two bets if I really believe that the raiser has a hand - and if I think that he will doubt that I have much of a hand. This situation sometimes arises after I've been caught bluffing with a scare card. Other times it happens when I'm against sophisticated players who understand that a raise with a second best hand often makes sense to limit the field. Here's an example of that.
I'm in late position with an Ace. An early position King raises. He is a pretty solid player, and knows all of the moves at the Stud table. He is not new to the game nor very tight. No other Kings are out. He is followed by a 9, held by a typically loose and passive player. The table is relatively loose. A few players usually call a Third Street raise. I have Trip Aces. There is a Queen after me. The 9 calls the Kings raise. I want to raise here. With my raise I am saying, in essence, "I don't know whether you have a King. Maybe I have an Ace in the hole. More likely I have a pocket pair or three suited cards. But I surely don't want to play this hand more than heads up against the King. Queen, please fold so my pocket pair and Ace kicker have a good chance of winning. King, if you really have Kings, feel free to re-raise to insure that this loose 9 folds, leaving her dead money behind." There is a very good chance that the King will call or even re-re-reraise me. If he does, and the 9 folds, then I surely want to call, not raise. And all of this action has surely set the hook deep in the King's mouth. He'll call all of my bets now until the River or, perhaps, unless I get an exposed pair or, surely, another King.
One final consideration: Low trips on Third can be beat if there are a lot of callers to the River. They only improve to a Full House about 50% of the time. They sometimes lose even when they do improve. And when they don't improve, they sometimes lose to Straights and Flushes. So in very loose games you want to raise to limit the field to give your Trips a better chance of winning the pot.
In sum, though you should slowplay those Trips in a tight game or if you otherwise fear that a raise will surely get everyone else to fold, they can usually win more money if you are at least moderately aggressive from Third Street on. In this regard, I find that it's better to set the hook early and hard, before they figure out your hand, rather than hoping that by slowly dangling the bait they'll fully swallow the bait.

posted by poker strategy at 1:47 AM 0 comments

Thursday, May 26, 2005

Pai Gow Poker Basic Strategy

Pai Gow Poker Basic Strategy
Please note rules may differ from casino to casino always check the rules at the casino you are playing.
Generally speaking, one should try to set the highest two-card hand that you can legally set (that is, the best two-card hand that still leaves a higher five-card hand behind). More specifically, one should expect and "average" hand to be something like a medium-to-high pair behind in the five-card hand and an ace-high in front.
A close approximation can be done with only a few rules of thumb. If you are playing in a casino, you can always ask that your hand be set "house way" if you are in doubt; most house strategies are quite reasonable (though they are generally conservative, leading to more pushes).
If you have no pair, no straights, and no flushes, set the second and third-higest cards in your two-card hand. For example, with K-Q-J-9-7-4-3, play Q-J and K-9-7-4-3. There are a few minor exceptions to this (for example, with A-Q-10-9-5-4-2 it is slightly better to play Q-9 and A-10-5-4-2), but these are rare and don't affect your win rate much.
If you have nothing a single pair, set it in your five-card hand and put the two highest remaining cards in your two-card hand. For example, with A-Q-Q-9-6-5-3, play A-9 and Q-Q-6-5-3. There are no exceptions to this rule. This rule and the rule above will cover 90% of the hands you play.
Two pair is the most common case where strategy isn't obvious. You can either play the high pair behind and small pair in front, or else two pair behind and high cards in front. The smaller your high pair and higher your remaining cards, the more you should be inclined to play two pair behind.
If your side cards are small, or your larger pair is large, split the pairs. You should always split pairs if your high pair is aces, and almost always split if your high pair is kings or queens; they are high enough by themselves. With something like J-J-4-4-A-Q-5 you can consider playing A-Q and J-J-4-4-5-, since A-Q in front is not much worse than 4-4, but two pair behind is much better than a single pair of jacks.
Jacks and tens might be more inclined to split, because tens in front is much better than A-Q. With pairs as small as 7s and 8s, you might consider playing two pair behind if you can play a king-high or better in front. With 2s and 3s, you might even play as little as a queen-high in front. If you have no side cards higher than a jack, always split pairs, even 2s and 3s.
Three pair is a very good hand. Always play the highest pair in front, no exceptions. For example, with K-K-7-7-4-4-A, play K-K and 7-7-4-4-A.
If you have three of a kind and nothing else, play three of a kind behind and remaining high cards in front, unless they are aces--always split three aces, playing a pair of aces behind and ace-high in front. Occasionally, you can even split three kings if your remaining side cards are not queen-high (for example, with K-K-K-J-9-7-6, it is slightly better to play K-J and K-K-9-7-6 than to play J-9 and K-K-K-7-6).
If you can play a straight or a flush or both, play whichever straight-or-better five-card hand makes the best two-card hand. For example, with K?-9?-8?-7?-6?-5?-4?, playing the flush would put 8-6 in front, playing the 9-high straight would put K-4 up front, but the correct play is K-9 and 8-7-6-5-4. Occasionally, you will have a straight or flush with two pair; in that case, play as if it were two pair and ignore the straight or flush. This rule applies even if you can play a straight flush: if a straight or flush makes a better hand in front, play it that way.
With a full house, generally play trips behind and the pair in front. The exception is if the pair is very small and your side cards are very high, for example, with 5-5-5-3-3-A-Q, it might be better to play A-Q with the full house behind. These are rare, though, and you will never be making a big mistake if you never play a full house behind.
With two sets of trips, play the higher as a pair in front, and the smaller trips behind. For example, with Q-Q-Q-7-7-7-A, play Q-Q and 7-7-7-A-Q. No exceptions.
With four of a kind, play as if it were two pair, but be slightly less inclined to split. For example, with 10-10-10-10-J-5-4, play 10-10 and 10-10-J-5-4; with 3-3-3-3-K-Q-7, play K-Q and 3-3-3-3-7.
With three pair and a straight or flush (only possible with the joker), play as three pair (aces in front).
The cases below will probably never happen to you, but just in case
With four of a kind and a pair, play the pair in front unless it is very small and the four of a kind is very large. For example, with 9-9-9-9-7-7-K, play 7-7 and 9-9-9-9-K, but with Q-Q-Q-Q-3-3-9, you might play Q-Q and Q-Q-3-3-9.
With a full house and a pair, play the higher pair in front and a full house in back.
With four of a kind and trips, split the four to play a pair in front and full house behind.
With all four aces and the joker, play a pair of aces in front and three aces (or a full house) behind.

posted by poker strategy at 10:57 PM 0 comments

Monday, May 16, 2005

Poker strategy to play

Our failed poker strategy was to fish around the schools of dinky 10- to 12-inch stripers with big plugs to hopefully hook one of the larger fish that often feed on these midget fish.
Accidentally, we landed 50 to 60 small bass, but never even saw a flash or boil from a larger fish. It was a bad plan based on the fact that all of the largest fish caught came from the upper river.
My greatest thrill during this year's event occurred during one of those 50 mph gusts of wind. I was casting a 5-ounce, very aerodynamic Salmo Fatso (herring clone plug) on a stiff, musky rod that can really wing a plug.
When the winds howled at their maximum, I launched an olympic cast up into the stratosphere at about a 45-degree angle, that was picked up and carried by the wind at least 20 to 30 yards further than any other cast of my life. Even farther than those record book lost lure casts when the bail closes and the line snaps, and that's one heck of a distance.
That line was going out for so long and so far I was getting bored by the time the plug landed, the better part of a 100 yards out. Reeling it in was like spooling the reel and took a matter of minutes at a fairly brisk cranking speed.
Pretty bad when a cast is the high point of a fishing trip.

posted by poker strategy at 6:20 PM 0 comments

Sunday, May 15, 2005

Poker strategy on the net

BetaTest Version of Online Poker Tournament Software Released by PokerBook
PokerBook Gaming Corporation, a provider of online poker software and charity tournaments, announced the release of the beta test version of PB25, its proprietary online poker tournament software. PokerBook's new online poker software does not require prior downloading or deposit and purports user friendliness.
Aside from offering its online poker software platform, ...will also soon feature poker news, poker tournament information and poker strategy.
A demo of PB25's beta test version is available at... To help familiarize online poker players and potential investors with its new poker software, PokerBook is offering freeroll tournaments each week and giving winners lucrative prizes. PokerBook is a subsidiary of Senticore, Inc., whose main focus revolves around making acquisitions in various industries, particularly the timber industry.

posted by poker strategy at 9:24 AM 0 comments

Thursday, May 12, 2005

Launched Poker strategy

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posted by poker strategy at 11:43 AM 0 comments

Wednesday, May 11, 2005

Poker strategy online.

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posted by poker strategy at 11:40 AM 0 comments

 


 

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